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"It's beauty that captures your attention; personality which captures your heart."
~Anonymous

There isn't much information available on Vietnamese Blue Beauties (Orthriophis taeniurus ssp formerly known as Elaphe taeniura ssp). This care sheet is based on my own experiences and everything I've been able to find on Blue Beauties so far. Check back for updates and corrections as I learn more.
General Information:
Distribution: Blue Beauties are colubrids native to the Vietnam-Thailand-Myanmar areas of Southeast Asia, from heavy forests to cultivated fields and mountainous areas.

Size: These are some of the longest rat snakes at typical lengths of 7 to 8 feet and weighing a little more than 3 pounds on average, with rare occurances of up to 11 feet.
Lifespan: Blue Beauties can live anywhere from 15 to 30 years.
Description: These are stunning snakes, long and slender with a blue-grey base color offset with cream and darker blue markings in 4 different patterns that change as you move down the body. Black orbital stripes accentuate the eyes while the chin and underside remain a creamy white to yellow. There are also a possibly a couple of morphs, such as Anery or Hypo.

The tail stripe is the reason for their other name, the "Stripe-tailed Rat Snake". This name is also used for Taiwan Beauty Snakes, Ridley's Stripe-Tailed and Striped Trinket Snakes, fellow members of E. taeniura with similar markings.

Hatchlings are much more olive green in color and grow bluer as they get older.
Behavior: Blue Beauties have had a reputation for being nervous snakes, but with regular handling they are very docile and charming pets. See Our Collection for observations on my own VBBs. They're also diurnal and largely active during the day, which is a nice change of pace from more rarely seen nocturnal snakes.
Care Information:
Difficulty Rating: 2. VBBs are very long and active snakes. Please see Enclosure information for more on space requirements.
Enclosure: The minimum enclosure size for an adult Blue Beauty is somewhere around 72Lx24Dx24H, but your snake will appreciate as much room to explore as you can give it so long as there are places to hide, climb, and lounge. A young snake or juvenile will need more hides for larger enclosures to reduce stress, but the very smallest you should use for a hatchling should be a 20L. Critter Cages are great starter habitats for hatchlings, nice secure lids at low prices. You WILL need a very secure lid or door! These are talented escape artists, and if you're using an aquarium as shown below you will need clips to keep the lid securely in place.

Check out our links for some excellent reptile enclosures. Only one snake per enclosure!
Substrate: I have used Carefresh Ultra and Indented Kraft Paper for my reptiles, but there are several good substrates out there for you to choose from. Newspaper and Kraft Paper is nice and easy to clean but not as aesthetic and your Beauties may enjoy burrowing. Coconut husk based substrates, Aspen, or Carefresh are decorative substrates that are ideal for Blue Beauties. Indented Kraft Paper is absorbant and a nice natural brown shade, very tidy and currently my substrate of choice. Cedar is deadly to reptiles, do not use Cedar bedding! Gravel, sand, mulch, and corn cob are not recommended for these snakes.

Temps: The ideal temperatures for Blue Beauties are 75-85 degrees. I've gotten a lot of mixed reviews on whether or not they need a temperature gradient, but I recommend getting an under tank heater and thermostat for your enclosure. Herpstat and Helix are very dependible thermostats for your snakes!
Humidity/Water: Blue Beauties need a water dish that is large enough for the snake to soak but not large enough for them to submerge their whole length at once. For my adults I use ceramic dog dishes. My female especially loves to soak, but quickly gets restless and never soaks long enough for us to have any concerns. They do best with the option of a humid hide, unless of course you live in a very humid climate. A humid hide consists of an appropriately sized plastic tub with a hole cut in it as an entrance, and with moist potting soil lining the bottom. So far I haven't had any shedding problems. Do not use distilled or chlorinated water! Chlorine is dangerous to reptiles, and the distillation process removes all of the natural nutrients from water that animals need.

Accessories: VBBs love to bask in high places such as on top of their hides or on ledges and cruise along branches over and under… The more you give them to adventure on, the more enjoyable watching them will be. Of course, this also means more items for you to clean. So basically, whatever works for you. Like all snakes, they do need at least one hide preferably elongated like a Creature Cubbyhole. These snakes seem to have some trouble with perfectly spherical hides and do better with something more oblong.

Feeding: Hatchlings and juveniles - 1 or 2 pink/ fuzzy mice to 1 or 2 pink/fuzzy rats every 7 days; Adults - 1 medium rat or 2 small rats every 7 to 14 days. Beauties seem to prefer smaller prey, so 2 small rats or multiple mice are preferable. I feed mine frozen/thawed. Your Beauty will typically sleep off his or her dinner for a day or two after. Please don't handle your snake for about 48 hours after feeding time to avoid risk of regurgitation.
Choosing to feed in a separate container or in the enclosure is up to you. We feed ours in the enclosure with no problems. Some are more comfortable eating in the enclosure and being moved only stresses them, and others don't care what you do so long as there is a rat in front of them. It all depends on what works best for you and your pet.

Handling: Beauties need regular handling to stay tame, especially at a young age, and like many colubrids are speedy active curious snakes! Mine tend to anchor themselves with their tail around my arm or wrist then endeavor to explore with the rest of their bodies. It's important to keep an eye on them, because they will happily wander off to points unknown. Otherwise, like most snakes, keep them gently but firmly supported. I find it useful when returning a snake to their enclosure to point their head into the hide and ease them in that way. It helps prevent one end heading out just as you're getting the other end back in. It's very important that you give your young beauty hands on attention to get them off to a great well socialized start!

Acclimation: New arrivals need at least a week or sometimes even two of just settling in, getting used to the new enclosure and routine, before they get handled. Just to get them off to a good start. :)
Please feel free to write in about your own experiences or questions in regards to this spectacular snake as well. I'd love to hear from you!
